To begin a meal at Le Sirenuse, the elegant restaurant that opened March 23 in Surfside’s Four Seasons Hotel at the Surf Club, a server wearing white gloves and a jacket with gold epaulets appears tableside holding a silver tray. On it sit two demitasses with rims powdered red by dehydrated tomato. Narrow crackers stacked with opaque red flesh balance on the cups’ rims. “Tuna tartare,” the server explains before pouring a cold lemon-and-tuna-infused broth into each cup.

The fish’s essence and bright citrus jolt you awake like a bucket of ice water.

Soon he’s back, this time holding a fist-size porcelain dish with two protruding sticks. The cover is lifted, and out come wisps of rosemary-and-thyme-scented smoke that flare nostrils and lend a pungent, woody aroma to two small butter-poached shrimp.

Such elegance befits the Surf Club, which is among South Florida’s most iconic beachside properties.